When In Paris

My two friends who were going to Paris asked if I could prepare an itinerary for them. Sharing here what I came up with.

First, some tips:

•  Bonjour

Always greet the Frenchies before asking for directions or ordering food, esp. the oldies. The locals are polite, they even say hello to their bus drivers.

Thanks to the young Korean who snapped this.

Bus view. Do you see Notre Dame?

•    Fellow Tourists

If you want to have your photo taken and want to make sure thieves don’t run away with your phone or cam, ask a fellow tourist. They’d be very much willing to do so. Then offer to return the favor.

Abbesses station in Montmarte

•  Bus over train

If you have a choice, choose the bus. You get to see the sights. For adventure, try the train with doors that open with passenger intervention. 

I think this is the train station under Musee D'Orsay.

•       Metro tickets

You use the same tickets for bus and train, same price too. One ticket per ride anywhere. Cheaper to buy in 10’s. The tickets are small, easy to lose. Don’t.

•       Citymapper

I love this mobile app. My life saver in London. I compared which was faster or cheaper by train or bus. How long if I walked.

To save on mobile data, I’d check where I was going while I was at home or school where there’s free wifi. I could just go back to it offline. And it tracks where I am even if I’m offline.

I wish I had this when I went to Paris. I would’ve been more efficient. But I wouldn’t have possibly found some interesting places all because I got lost, like Van Gogh’s apartment and Rue du Chat qui Peche (Street of the Fishing Cat) –the narrowest street in Paree; short too. (Funny thing. When I went the next day to take a photo, I couldn’t find it anymore.) And this train station.

•  Google Translate

                Need I expound? J

• Be alert.

  

  Tour Eiffel

Pickpockets abound. Though from my experience, I only saw them at the Eiffel Tower. Maybe because back then, the police were on heightened alert because of the Charlie Ebno thing. Two friends had an unpleasant experience. A gypsy kept following her, touching her bag. Her husband had to shout at the woman to shoo her away. 

Some foodie to try out while in Paris:

• Baguette. Try one from any boulangerie (bakery).
• Macarons by Laduree (there’s one along Champs). But since there's now one in Manila, try Pierre Herme instead. Lucky me, Annick always had baguette and macarons for me in the morning. 
• Fries. I ordered just to check if it’s any different. Not! Except they’re just called fries, not French fries. 
• Falafel. I didn’t because I didn't think I could finish the serving and I wasn’t sure I’d like it. You know, I'm no begetarian and then it's got sweet peas. No, thanks. If you want to try, go to L’as du Fallafel, supposedly the best.
• Crepe. Your favorite!
• Creme Brulee. Yum but nothing special, or at least the one I ordered.
• Fois gras. I didn’t get a chance to try this.
• Wine. I drank a lot of it to warm me up. I also had pho a few times for the same reason.

Now for the Itinerary

Day 1 

Take the time to go around, eat breakfast  –French toast, baguette, tea? –before heading to:

Shot from Trocadero Hills

• Eiffel Tower or more popularly known there as Tour Eiffel (read: Tourifel)

Best view of the Eiffel Tower per Annick, my Parisian host, is from Trocadero. But for me, the best would be up close. J

I came from Champs de Mars then crossed the River Seine and went to the hilly Jardin du Trocadero after.

By the Tower is where many gypsies might approach you to sign a petition of this and that. The trick is that while you're signing the document, someone will swipe your valuables. So, politely say no and walk away.

You may want to climb the tower.  There’s a resto on the 1st or 2nd floor.  I didn’t.  What with the long queue. Forget it.

Arc de Triomphe

• Arc de Triomphe then Champs Elysee Avenue, Grand Palais, Petit Palais, Place de la Concorde, Pont Alexander III

From Eiffel Tower, I walked up to Trocadero, took pics. Saw some souvenir shops and bought a few. Then walked all the way to Arc de Triomphe!  Took pics, bought a sandwich then walked down Champs Elysee Avenue, not the entire avenue though.







I walked into Louis Vuitton’s mothership for a peek. Just so I can say, so, this is LV’s mothership. Hah!

The sales peeps looked snobbish so I confidently held my head high as if I had plans to buy. J

I offered to take a photo of two excited ladies on the same spot where I stood and they took mine. I think theirs was better though. Hah!

Just take the Metro or bus from Trocadero and stop at Arc de Triomphe. Ride Metro again to Champs Elysee Clemeceau to get to Grand Palais and Petit Palais which are just next to each other. From there, you can walk to see Place de la Concorde, if you like. Place (read: plaz) is a plaza or square.

Just a stone’s throw away is Pont Alexander III, ornate bridge. (Pont means bridge.) Just lovely to flaneur.  If you have time, go to Musee Rodin. Their most famous sculpture there is the Thinking Man.

If you like to shop, go to Rue de Saint Honore, near Champs Elysee.

•  Eiffel Tower. I suggest you go back to the famed tower at night to see it all glittery. 

I went to the Eiffel Tower twice. In the morning and the next day, at night when it was dazzling like a lady, all pretty and made up ready to dance the night away.

OR

• Bateaux Parisiens (silent x, read: Bateau Parisia)

It just means Parisian boat. You can find it on River Seine (read: sen) near Eiffel Tower. That’s if you fancy cruising, I didn't take it. Just that I couldn’t seem to stay put. I felt like I had to keep walking, skipping actually. Haha!

Day 2

Look at that gilded elegance! Palace of Versailles it is!

• Versailles (read: Versai)

Napoleon Bonaparte's monument in front of the Palace

Where the French royalty lived. This place is vast. When you get to the palace, you’ll realize why it was so easy for the likes of Marie Antoinette to forget about the poor. First, it’s far from Paris (40 mins by train; I mean back in those days). Second, they’re surrounded by opulence and its expanse is like a kingdom of its own. OK,  a small one. Such can make you feel detached from the rest of the world.

You guessed it, I trusted someone with my phone again. :) He was too far though, don't you think? 

Outside the palace, at the back 

They must be feeling cold too. Hee!

A sculpture right smack in the middle of a lake called Grand Canal

Just lovely!

I could’ve spent a day there. Even outside the Palace is charming. (But then, it’s true for all the other places in Paris.) The town, I mean, quiet and slow-paced. Anyway, learn to manage your time. 

You can buy a ticket to the palace at the gate of the palace or at a mall right across the train station where you’ll get off. I bought mine there before heading to the palace, same price. From there, just walk to the gate. Not that far. 

•  Van Gogh’s, Cafe de Deux Moulins, Moulin Rouge, Sacre Couer                                                  

Take the train back to Paris and make sure to get off the right station. Unlike someone I know. Hah!

Welcome to Montmarte aka artists' place!

 

It’s so nice to walk around Montmartre (read: Momart), where many artists lived. Among them, one of my favorites, Vincent Van Gogh

Walking the cobblestone streets of Montmarte, I must have asked 7 locals or more for directions. One of them an old man. I asked "Excusez-moi, Monsieur Bonjour! Parlez vous Anglais?" And he said, non but was friendly. I thought I'd try anyway, I said, "Je vais a Moulin Rouge."

"Ah, Moulin Rouge," and started spouting Martian with emphatic pointing and kind of asked where I was going and I told him I was looking for Moulin Rouge. He gave me directions in French with hand signals and pointing. He even repeated it twice. I smiled and lost my way. 

VVG and his brother Theo's apartment

From the Metro station, Abbesses, go to Rue Lepic Avenue. This street is one of the most famous in Paris. 

Find Van Gogh’s apartment -- blue door, white building. 

Plaque says: In this house Vincent Van Gogh lived with his brother Theo from 1886 to 1888

Got its name from the two historical windmills -- Moulin Rouge and Moulin de la Galette. 

Go down Rue Lepic to find Cafe des Deux Moulin.

Remember the movie, Amelie? It’s the resto where she worked. I suggest you eat lunch there.

I actually passed by it but missed it while looking for Moulin Rouge. #facepalm




I got to the other side of town, though not that far, and there I found a tourist who told me, "Yeah, the restaurant made famous by the movie. I saw it but I don't remember how to get there now."


Then I stopped a father and son duo. The dad told me where to go. And after that, I heard the little boy say proudly, "Daddy knows how to speak English," or something.

 

I took theirs later and they took mine but let's just say, I like photobombers.

If you go up and past Van Gogh's building, you will find this restaurant called Moulin de la Galette. (Galette is a type of bread.) This business was up back in the nineteenth century and was quite popular. Renoir and Van Gogh immortalized this establishment in their works.  

To get to Moulin Rouge, walk further down the street from Cafe de 2 Moulins. At the major avenue, Boulevard de Clichy, turn right to find the cabaret. 

How about watch a show? I did fancy booking me one but as I said, I can't stay put. I preferred walking. 

(BTW, there’s a small train you can ride that goes around Montmartre but they say it’s for kids and old peeps. Uncool and even risk getting stares if you ride it without kids or oldies in tow. Its station is just across Moulin Rouge.)




And found a cemetery! It’s a bit creepy but people actually walked around it. So I did what the Parisians did and passed through it.

Cimetiere de Montmarte. I actually find cemeteries interesting. It all started when I saw BKK’s. Amusing shapes too.

Flower shop near the cemetery had these on the side walk.

From Moulin Rouge, you might want to go to Le Mur de J’taime (Wall of I Love You) on Rue de Abbesses near Abesses Metro station. Just a wall with I love you’s in different languages. Not much to it, it's OK if you miss it like me, I guess.

From there, you can take the Metro (actually, there’s still walking even if you ride the train as it's just one stop) or walk up all the way to Sacre Couer or Sacred Heart Cathedral. Kinda far. So you might want to eat something first.

I guess you know what I chose.

This is Sacre Couer.

Sacre Couer is not far from the train station where I got off.  You can actually see it from there because it's on the highest spot.

If you like to hear Mass in a different language like moi, wait for the 6 PM Mass. I found it meditative. I got to respond, "Amen", the sign of the Cross --au nom du pere, et du fis, et du saint esprit and Our Father as I know la version francais par couer.   

The view worth climbing 300 steps to Sacre Couer.  

It’s nice to stay up there outside the steps of the church for a nice view of Paris. You can see Eiffel Tower from there. I think you can see Tourifel from anywhere in the city. J

You don't have to use the stairs though. There's a lift just beside which I found when I got to the top.

Stairway to Heaven called Sacre Couer

A park in the middle of Boulevard de Clichy

With interesting shops, old but well-kept buildings, and trees around, it’s so nice to walk around the cobblestone streets of Montmartre. But I said that already.

Near the park, while I was looking for Cafe des 2 Moulins, three teenage Japanese kids approached me and asked for directions. Surprised I wasn't from there. I look more like them than French, what were these kids thinking. Good thing, I knew where Sacre Couer was.) 

It was in Paris where I first saw leafless trees which were alive; just sleeping through winter.

Sleeping trees waiting for spring

Interesting theater near Moulin Rouge

Day 3 

Louvre Museum

• Louvre, Jardin Tulerries, Musee D’Orangerie, Musee D’Orsay

I never thought it looked like this inside the glass pyramid of Louvre.

Louvre is a vast museum. A friend advised that I plan ahead what I want to see in there to be efficient. I didn’t follow his advice and just went around.  

I checked out the famed lady, Mona Lisa, first of all then, just went where my legs and my curiosity led me to. I still had fun. You can’t miss her all signs lead to her. Or just follow the throngs of peeps. J

Another friendly tourist, another photo of mine.

Me having a field day at the "candy shop" while entrusting my phone to strangers

Then, I walked around the garden outside and crossed the river to get to Musee D’Orsay.

I skipped Musee D’Orangerie, which has Monet's paintings because I was too excited to see Van Gogh’s, having been deprived at Louvre. D’Orsay has Monet’s anyway.

Love locks adorn the side of the bridge

The bridge that I crossed was full of love locks, as they're called. The ritual goes: A couple would bring padlocks, swear to be faithful to one another, lock it and throw the key down the river. I  heard even friends did it. 

A vendor stood there on the bridge with his wares for last-minute decisions.

But I read that the city started removing them in 2015, same year I went.  (They just waited for me to see before taking them down? I bet. Haha!)

 Near the bridge was the train station turned museum hence the architecture and layout. While inside and not knowing that bit of info, I actually thought, how nice they designed their gallery like that of a train station because it works!

Musee D'Orsay

I love Musee D’Orsay because they have VG’s collections.

 VG's colors are so vibrant, especially the yellows. I wanted to cry, photography not allowed inside. There were those who surreptitiously took a few clicks despite the warnings and roaming guards. I really wanted to but restrained myself.

You can buy souvenirs there. I got postcards. I couldn’t buy the big ones for fear of crumpling them because the bag I brought that day was small. Anyway, I wanted to have them framed. Two years later, it's still in its wrapping. 

•  Jardin de Luxembourg, Latin Quarter: Pantheon, Sorbonne University, Rue du Chat qui Peche, Shakespeare and Company (popular old book shop), Le Procope (oldest cafe)

Luxembourg Garden is huge. 

Sculptures like this are around in the park.

It houses the Senate or in French, Senat (silent t).  

Saw families spending their afternoons here strolling, playing, laughing, reading, sitting, or just breathing in this beauty. How lucky, I thought.

That building is the French Senat inside the garden. Isn't that great for the senators and staff?

One of the many sculptures of significant men and women during their times

This pond freezes in winter and becomes an ice skating rink open to the public. I had plans of testing the waters but, when I got there, yeah, it was water.

The Patheon which houses distinguished Frenchmen and women.

If you’re craving for McDonald's, there’s one outside. I don’t remember the street but if you’re facing Senat, it’s on the right side across the street that curves. 

St. Severin in the middle of bars and cafes; right across Le Saint Severin (below)

One of the Parisian restaurants I tried

Day 4

Go out there to get to Latin Quarter (University belt). Here you’ll find the Pantheon (where the likes of Napoleon are buried), Sorbonne University (oldest uni),  Rue du Chat qui Peche (narrowest street) etc.

Latin Quarter is full of students and artists. I didn't get to take photos, busy walking and taking in everything.

Here you'll find  Shakespeare and Company, a popular old book shop and grab a meal at Le Procope. This is where Hemingway and the likes hung out during their time. I don’t know how steep the prices are though. 

Musee de Cluny is also in this area. In case you want to check it out. I didn’t, spooky-looking.

Notre Dame

•  Notre Dame 

Make sure to hear Mass!
No, I didn’t climb it.

• Opera House/Palace Garnier

No photo taken. I just passed by it while in a bus and wow!
How beautiful! I forgot to take out my phone.

Our Lady which is what "Notre Dame" means all lighted up

Take the Metro. Check what’s showing, if there's anything interesting. But the architecture alone is a feast for the eyes. Don't miss it!

• Buttes Champs

From Opera House, you’ll have to ride a bus or train though. This is another huge park on the 19th arrondisement. Arrondissement just means district. Paris has 20; the lower the no., the closer to the center.

Here, you’ll find waterfalls, grotto, etc. Nice for strolling, especially for lovers like you.

• Center du Pompidou

Closed on the day I was supposed to go. It's known for its avant garde architecture. With activity centers inside.

Located in the bohemian quarter called Marais (silent s) where bars abound. If you’re craving for falafel, go to the most popular --L’as du Fallafel – at Rue des Rosiers. Just nearby.

For dinner, how about Frenchie To Go? Recommended by Annick. It’s a small place so be early. I didn't try, I was happy with Vietnamese pho to warm me up during that winter.

•  Hotel de Ville

In case you want to see their city hall. Nice old architecture.

• Place Jose Rizal in the 9th arr, located in front of 55 Rue De Maubeuge. In case you want to have your photo taken here and feel proud of our national hero and PH. It's small though.

Day 5

• Monet’s House and Garden in Giverny

Like Versailles, it’s outside Paris. You'll need a day or maybe half will do. I didn’t get to go, ran out of time. But I hear it’s sooo lovely. 

That's pretty much everything I know about Paris. Amuse-toi bien! Or enjoy and have fun!